Monday, May 31, 2010

Kyoto





We decided to take a break from camping Japanese style, and checked in to the Westin in Kyoto. A bit of indulgence, leading to my 50 th birthday....
In Kyoto, I had one spot marked on my to-do list. Aritsugu, a 400+ years old sword maker joint, that has now reverted to kitchen knifed and utensils. In a small but well designed store in the market of Kyoto, Aritsugo lived up to the expectations. We are off to Kobe today. Looking forward to a good steak. More about Aritsugo when we get back to the hotel tonight.

On the road to Narai





BBQ Char and impressions of Gokayama



The Inn keeper

Safta chan in the kitchen

Safta chan sent mail

Subject: Hi

Hey there. Thought I would send you a quick email to say hi and give u some pics.

We are starting our third day today going to stay in Kyoto or the next two nights. We ate opting for a western hotel tonight as we have stayed for two nights at Japanese style and needless to say the tatami mats are not as comfy as my heavenly bed!!

We ended up last night in a village, and when I say village I MEAN village!  7 houses and no English. Thank god for the iPhone bc I have an english to Japanese translator that types words in Japanese!!  So we goto this one place trying to tell them we were recommended to stay there and they say sorry closed but motion to another house where we go and the lady shows us to our tatami room!  I was a bit nervous bc no English and at some pt 6 Japanese college students show up who of course spoke engrish. All in all it was great but a bit dicey at first. So the lady of the house gives us a present for staying, I think oh how nice soup.  But no... After everyone takes a sip and passes the bowl to me... It is hot sake(not bad) with one of the cooked fish in it you see below. It also wasn't too bad but a bit funny as our exposure to Japanese food is the fairly tame raw stuff we eat at home! But the food is great and people are very nice and we r having a great time.

Love u
Danielle

Day 3 - Zaba san & Safta chan find new friends




Poetry
It's easy to understand how do Japanese people get so poetic about everything, once you hit rural Japan. Our trip brought us to the small village of Ainokura, part of the Gokayama heritage village triangle. A rustic local tourism attraction with villagers keeping true to the Japanese tradition.
Yomoshiro seemed to be the secret code. It is the name of the local Ryokan where we intended to stay. Obviously showing up without reservation, made us miss the fine detail that the joint is closed...
The name Yomoshiro however, made the guard at the gate bow deep and let us through the pedestrian street, on the bike, without pay.
Once we found Mr Yomoshiro's place, a small village gathering helped explain to us that we are out of luck. With help of the iPhone, we asked for alternate accommodation, and found a less prominent but all the same comfortable alternative Ryokan, across the street.
An hour into our stay, an eclectic group of Japanese youth and an older man, joined us and took over the rest of the house. Things were awkward for a short while and when the ice broke, we had newly found friends.
The fact that we had iPad's with us took the friendship to new heights.
Food was served at 6:30 promptly. It was as elaborate as with the previous Ryokan, but not as expensive in ingredients. Collection of plates on a small tray. My favorite assortment of Daikon, Bamboo shoots and Cucumber pickles included. All crunchy and slightly sour. Just right.
One plate had a grilled Char that has been prepared while we were waiting, on a fire pit in the middle of the room.
The Inn owner artfully laced them on a bamboo skewer and arranged in a circle around the flaming hot charcoal.
The food was delicious. The house treated us to a delicacy, a large soup bowl filled with warm Sake and the last grilled Char, that has been passed around for people to sip from. A communal sake .Bowl with BBQ fish? What a concept.
Back to Poetry talk. Oos an Aahs were expressed with every bite from our Japanese friends. The fragrance of the rice, the taste of the soup and delicious fish where all acknowledged and discussed. After dinner, the older guest, a journalist for a Tokyo paper who rode in on a Honda CBR, invited us all to a stroll along the main drag of the village. There again, the reflection of the houses in the rice fields and moon shining through the clouds, were discussed and admired.
The group didn't know each other before today. They gathered through a tweet of one of them, saying they ad going to Gokayama for the night, and if anyone wanted to join. We were just bystanders.
Off to a good tatami and Futon night. We were so tired, we went to bed at 9.

Saturday, May 29, 2010

Day 2 - the ride

It was anything but routine. Driving out from the Ryokan, we started a climb. Up the mountain range that hosted the famous Nagano winter Olimpics. The first leg took us on a twistie road at 3-4000 meters elevation with magnificent views of bamboo meadows and snow top mountain ranges. Plumes of steam rise from the slopes here and there.
Spotted with ski resorts, some with ski runs that were still open. Temperatures dropped to 10c. / 40f on the way. Coming off the Japanese Alps, making sure we do not hit a stray monkey along the road (yes the famous monkeys that hang out in the hot springs, wander on the road between baths),
we drove toward the north westrn coast of Japan.
A couple of hours later and a bowl of steaming tempura Ramen, we got to our destination for the night. Gokayama, a UNESCO heritage listed village. More about our experience there in tomorrow's bit.

Friday, May 28, 2010

Kusatsu onsen ryokan

Room with a view

From Japan Adventure

Wake up wake up my little egg

Gagaga googoogoo this is Day 2

5:30 am
Getting my sleepy head out of bed. Sleeping on a futon on the floor was not so bad after all. Not sure how much the Biru and fatigu contributed to it.
The weatherman predicts rain for today and drop in temperature.
Going to crawl back under the blanket. The room in the ryokan is nippy.

On the road to Kusatsu

Grilled beef in Tokyo

Thursday, May 27, 2010

Day 1 - gearing up

We definitely started out in grandeur. After checking in to the Park Hyatt, most famous from the scene in. "Lost in translation",
we have gone out to an exquisite dinner in a Japanese restaurant..
Some of the highlights included an out of this world Hamachi Sashimi, Medium rarer Kobe beef sirloin grilled in a lotus leaf on the table and an amazing bowl of rice, creamy egg, lobster and sea urchin.
All accompanied with a cold semi dry Sake.
This morning, I am off to pick up the bike. If I manage to keep it eventless, We should be able to be on our way by noon
Nagano is our target for today. Mountain twisties and Onsen hot-spring Bath houses. How bad can it be...

7:23 PM
We settled in the Ryokan for our first Onsen and a Futon bed on the Tatami. In other words, we got to the local Motel 6 in Kusatsu, and got to the room with extra hard matress, green tea and a bath with bath water that has been used by the previous guests.
the heated seat on the toilette is the only Ray of light. Safta and I are being brave. We read the book and try and respect the habits of the indigenious habitants of Japan.
It's actualy very cool. We had an amazing drive through the mountains leading to the Ryokan, through rice fields and picturesque villages.
8:30
Dinner was served. Not as good as last night but quite delicious still. Chicken Shabu Shabu, Bamboo rice and Tuna sashimi were my favorites.
In an hour we are going to soak in a hot bath. Yet another first time for the day. Our eyes are heavy. It's been a very long day.

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Chapter 2: Packing


It's strange packing for a bike trip that starts somewhere else. Usually when we pack for a trip, we each have our saddle bag and are bound by the available space. We got it down to science on our own bike and are now struggling with how much to take. I think we nailed it again but will find out only when we get to Tokyo late tomorrow. My motto, you can dump access and buy whatever we miss. It's not a big deal either way.
So... why do I care? Not sure.

Monday, May 3, 2010

Chapter 1: Planning


Trip planning is like foreplay. It's wayyyy fun but should not distract you from the purpose of your activity. Enjoy it while it lasts and move on to the main course when the time is right.
The Bike is all sorted out. The routes are plotted and highlights have been identified.
We went through Top Ten books, Japanese top 100 roads, Tony Bourdain's recommended spots as well as Chef Morimoto's favorites.
The kids have been safely deposited with Grandpa and Grandma, accompanied by Mia, our trusted nanny, and with paraphernalia such as dollies, diapers, Swimsuits, Sun tan protection, etc.
We are excited, hyper ventilating, a little bit sweaty... Did I mention foreplay?